For a while when I was a kid, my dad used to work as a cook in an day-care home for the elderly and the main perk of this job for me, was that there would always be some sort of leftover treat waiting when I got home. More often than not, it was cold custard (which I was very happy with) but often there was sponge cake or scones, or more traditional and unfashionable things like steamed pudding. When trying to think of interesting ways to use my new favourite thing, yuzu, in a dessert, it should have come as no surprise he would suggest a suet pudding.
Korean yuzu tea, is actually more akin to a jam or a marmalade, than something we would recognise as a tea (or a tisane, to the pedants, as there is no trace of Camelia sinensis, the tea plant, to be found). It’s made by simmering yuzu in honey until it is tender as a way of preserving its medicinal value long after the short season. The end product, sold in jars, is much marmalade and is complete with both flecks of pulp and shredded rind. Rather than being spread on toast however, it is dissolved into a cup of hot water as a citrusy drink. But with a jammy texture, it seemed a great idea to try its bright flavour sandwiched in a roll of thick suet pastry.
Of course, traditional British puddings aren’t known for their delicacy, so perhaps making it at the height of summer wasn’t my best idea but I was eager to test the recipe out. Fortunately, when I made it wasn’t as hot a day as it is now. Perhaps on a rainier day, this vibrant citrus can be a reminder that somewhere, it might be sunny.
Combine the flour, suet and salt in a bowl. Gradually add the water, mixing the dough with a knife as you go, until the dough comes together in a single ball. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and roll out to a 20x30cm rectangle, about 2cm thick. Leaving 1cm along the edges free, spread with the yuzu tea. To roll it up, fold the long, uncovered edges of the pudding over to seal in the yuzu, and then roll up from of the shorter edges into a log. Brush all over with the beaten egg and milk, place in at the edge roasting tray (so it can’t unroll in the oven) and sprinkle generously with caster sugar before baking for 35-40 minutes. Serve immediately, dusted with more sugar and with plenty of custard (ideally from a packet!). Serves 4-6.